Tales from Mountains and Seas

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Darcha to Lamayuru Trek - Day 13 to Day 14



DAY 13: LINGSHED TO BASE CAMP OF SINGE LA VIA MARGUN LA (4370M), KUPA LA (4430M) & SENGE LA (4900M)


This was the day that I crossed 3 passes and walked for 11 hours.

After a full breakfast of dal and rice from the previous night, I said goodbye to my young lama friend. I started from Lingshed early, at around 7 a.m., with full power.
The view after an hour’s walk from Lingshed
 The trail ascends gently, presenting gorgeous views of the nearby mountain ranges.
Walking shadow
After around two hours of easy walking, I reached the first pass of the day, Margun La (4370m). To be honest, it did not look like a pass, as it was easy to ignore. From there, I could see Kupa La Pass (4430m) straight ahead. This was the first time I could see a pass from another pass. The climb to Kupa La looked quite steep from far.
Under-rated Margun La (4370m) pass. Straight ahead is Kupa La (4430m)
The zigzag trail looked daunting and interesting at the same time. Unfortunately, the road has been built till Kupa La, and the thicker zigzag (in the photo) is the road.
Trails like these make the day more interesting. I could see a few people walking on it.
Skyumpatta Village
The trail goes down to the scenic Skyumpatta Village. As I wanted to cover a lot of ground that day, I went straight down without taking long breaks.
The old lady had real difficulty walking. They had to go down and then up again.
It was more of walking and less of photographing. The dal and rice in the morning really helped me walk fast and I climbed the zigzag trail with ease, reaching Kupa La at around 11:30 a.m.
Kupa La (4430m)

Wrath of the sheep
At Kupa La, a herd of sheep came out of nowhere and started eating the prayer flags! They can eat anything!
Spiritual Buffet!

In the centre is Kupa La. Somewhere behind it and on top must be Hanuma La.

Not amused to walk on the road

Did not leave my sole behind in Ladakh
Since I was in a rush, I did not take photographs of the dhaba at the base camp of Senge La. I had another sumptuous meal of dal and rice here and left quickly at around 2 p.m. for Senge La (4900m). Senge La is the highest pass of this stretch and my third pass for the day.
The road to Senge La, the plateau is the pass.

Snow graffiti artist Satnam Singh's masterpiece
To go to Senge La, the ascent is moderate, but the altitude makes it tough. The weather started getting worse and dark clouds loomed over me.
Not looking good
Hole in the sky

Hole gone
That is Senge La (4900m) for you

Other side of the pass

The highest pass has been conquered!
 The descent was long and tiring. I reached the campsite around 6 pm, exhausted but gratified.
The dhaba at the base camp of Senge La

Dinner - The Sku
I spent the evening talking to the dhaba owner and the horseman. After walking for 11 hours straight and crossing 3 passes, I felt like Hercules and slept off early.

 

DAY 14: BASE CAMP OF SINGE LA - PHOTOKSAR TO KHALTSE

I woke up early to a magnificent sunrise and wonderful scenery all around it.
Some peak over 6000m
On the left is Senge La
I was told that I could get a shared ride from Photoksar. Since there was no trail after Photoksar, I would haveto walk on the road, which I did not want to. Fatigue had set in, both mental as well as physical. So, I decided to finish the trek at Photoksar.
Boulevard of broken dreams
I was told to walk on the trail, but I decided to walk on the road instead. It turns out that there is a major river crossing on the road, which vehicles could cross easily, but people could not. I had to walk all the way up to the trail where the river was less turbulent. I spent an hour in doing this. This was my first river crossing. Doing it alone was quite risky, and I will not be repeating it in future!

Baddass river crossing

A landscape that belongs on a wallpaper
The feeling had set in and I just wanted to reach Photoksar as soon as possible and finish the trek.
Horseman, red rock, rucksack and walking stick

Another pass that I did not care about

Welcome to Photoksar
I reached Photoksar at around 11 a.m., but could not immediately find a ride to Lamayuru. So I waited at the only tea shop near the highway. While waiting, I had a great meal of sabzi and rice, while interacting with some local kids.
Beauties

With a bribe of chips packet, love comes naturally!

Weather changed drastically, rain, sun, then rain again

Wow
Finally, a shared cab arrived at around 4 p.m. and I got a free ride till Khaltse. I was so tired that I decided to skip Lamayuru and end the trip in Khaltse.
Goodbye, until next time




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