Darcha to Lamayuru Trek - Day 11 to Day 12

By: satnam on 11:03 AM

DAY 11: HANUMIL TO SNETZE VIA PURFI LA (3900M)

I started early at around 7 a.m. and headed towards Snetze at a quick pace. As I walked past the Zanskar river, I remembered rafting on it 3 years ago.

It was an easy downhill trail, with barely any ascent.

The river just kisses the trail

That is Hanumil village

Notice the trail on the left?

Gigantic straight face rock

I walked and walked for a couple of hours until the trail started to ascend towards Purfi La (3900m). It moved away from Zanskar river. Walking alone gave me a lot of time to introspect and appreciate the magnanimous views around.

A pakka road on the left, spoiling the view

One misstep and you can swim with the fishes in Zanskar river

Steep steps before the pass

Reached Purfi La / Barfi La (3900m) pass at around 10 a.m. I had made good timing.

Purfi la pass (3900m)

Few days old baby horse crossing the pass, like a boss !

After crossing the Purfi La pass, the descent is sudden and steep. It nearly damaged my knees :-( After this sudden descent and a small river crossing, there is a shop to rest and eat. Unsurprisingly, I had two plates of Maggi. After many curious looks and questions (solo Indian on this trek!), I left for Snetze.

Yep, another ascent to reach the campsite at Snetze

I love my eggs too...lol

Somewhere on the right is Purfi La and the killer descent from there

It was the cruellest day as the sun beat down hard, and I was sweating too much. The last part of the walk brought heaps of dust as well.

The lowest part in the middle is Purfi La, I had come from there!

I reached Snetze at around 2 p.m., tired and soaking wet. After another round of Maggi with beer, I slept for a while under the shade of a tree. I chatted with a Ladakhi guide, who said that he had been trekking on that route for 14 years, but had never seen an Indian trekker, let alone a solo Indian trekker!

Godfather and Jhatka

I had a wonderful nap

My private natural Jacuzzi! I washed my clothes and myself here

After the nap, I set up my tent at the campsite and helped a father-son duo to set up a parachute tent. They were from Lingshed and had come to Snetze for the season.

Snetze is a beautiful camping site

 I was alone at the camping site, which made it quite an experience for me.

Yummy Tomok made by the hosts

The evening went by chatting with the campsite owner and negotiating a deal with a horse owner. He had no customers and was going in the same direction as I was. The campsite owner warned me about bears in the area, since I had pitched my tent far from theirs. But he told me not to worry as his donkeys were there, and bears find donkeys more delicious than humans.

DAY 12: SNETZE TO LINGSHED VIA HANUMA LA (4700M)

Thankfully, no bears attacked me the previous night. After a simple breakfast of omelette and chapatti, I left for Hanuma La (4700m) at around 9a.m.

Snetze is somewhere down in the centre

The trail led to a narrow valley with an average uphill ascent. Afterwards, it opened up into a beautiful yellow-stoned valley.

Yellow, yellow all around

Hanuma La (4700m) somewhere behind that last mountain

After a few hours of walking, I started to feel weak, possibly due to a light breakfast or the altitude gain. I kept walking.

The campsite owner at Snetze gave me that wonderful stick

I reached Hanuma La (4700m) at around 11a.m. and realised that the last 50 metres before reaching any pass make for the most rewarding steps of the whole journey. Crossing this pass brought me immense happiness. It could have been due to the struggle or the pleasant weather. Either way, I thoroughly cherished the view .

That green stuff is Lingshed, my destination for that day. Yay!

Stupid pose

The descent on the other side of Hanuma La was not very punishing but still quite steep. I had a plate of Maggi and coke at a shop located at the base of Hanuma La, and continued my way towards Lingshed.

The Descent

Cuteness

Upon reaching Lingshed at around 4 p.m., I started to look for a place to stay. I could not see a campsite or hotel where I could pitch my tent. I was told at Snetze that there was a guesthouse at the top of Lingshed monastery. On my way there, I started talking to a few monks who suggested that I should go to the monastery and talk to the monks there.

Lingshed village, the first one after Padum

Monastery kitchen

Amazingly curious and friendly monks

I had a couple of litres of butter tea along with some food.

I stayed there for the night, in a shared room with a young monk. He cooked dal and rice for dinner, and we talked about our lives.

The young monk, my host

The room I slept in was earlier occupied by an old monk who had died.

The evening was spent strolling around Lingshed and chatting with a naughty, young monk.

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