Tales from Mountains and Seas

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Darcha to Lamayuru Trek - Day 13 to Day 14



DAY 13: LINGSHED TO BASE CAMP OF SINGE LA VIA MARGUN LA (4370M), KUPA LA (4430M) & SENGE LA (4900M)


This was the day that I crossed 3 passes and walked for 11 hours.

After a full breakfast of dal and rice from the previous night, I said goodbye to my young lama friend. I started from Lingshed early, at around 7 a.m., with full power.
The view after an hour’s walk from Lingshed
 The trail ascends gently, presenting gorgeous views of the nearby mountain ranges.
Walking shadow
After around two hours of easy walking, I reached the first pass of the day, Margun La (4370m). To be honest, it did not look like a pass, as it was easy to ignore. From there, I could see Kupa La Pass (4430m) straight ahead. This was the first time I could see a pass from another pass. The climb to Kupa La looked quite steep from far.
Under-rated Margun La (4370m) pass. Straight ahead is Kupa La (4430m)
The zigzag trail looked daunting and interesting at the same time. Unfortunately, the road has been built till Kupa La, and the thicker zigzag (in the photo) is the road.
Trails like these make the day more interesting. I could see a few people walking on it.
Skyumpatta Village
The trail goes down to the scenic Skyumpatta Village. As I wanted to cover a lot of ground that day, I went straight down without taking long breaks.
The old lady had real difficulty walking. They had to go down and then up again.
It was more of walking and less of photographing. The dal and rice in the morning really helped me walk fast and I climbed the zigzag trail with ease, reaching Kupa La at around 11:30 a.m.
Kupa La (4430m)

Wrath of the sheep
At Kupa La, a herd of sheep came out of nowhere and started eating the prayer flags! They can eat anything!
Spiritual Buffet!

In the centre is Kupa La. Somewhere behind it and on top must be Hanuma La.

Not amused to walk on the road

Did not leave my sole behind in Ladakh
Since I was in a rush, I did not take photographs of the dhaba at the base camp of Senge La. I had another sumptuous meal of dal and rice here and left quickly at around 2 p.m. for Senge La (4900m). Senge La is the highest pass of this stretch and my third pass for the day.
The road to Senge La, the plateau is the pass.

Snow graffiti artist Satnam Singh's masterpiece
To go to Senge La, the ascent is moderate, but the altitude makes it tough. The weather started getting worse and dark clouds loomed over me.
Not looking good
Hole in the sky

Hole gone
That is Senge La (4900m) for you

Other side of the pass

The highest pass has been conquered!
 The descent was long and tiring. I reached the campsite around 6 pm, exhausted but gratified.
The dhaba at the base camp of Senge La

Dinner - The Sku
I spent the evening talking to the dhaba owner and the horseman. After walking for 11 hours straight and crossing 3 passes, I felt like Hercules and slept off early.

 

DAY 14: BASE CAMP OF SINGE LA - PHOTOKSAR TO KHALTSE

I woke up early to a magnificent sunrise and wonderful scenery all around it.
Some peak over 6000m
On the left is Senge La
I was told that I could get a shared ride from Photoksar. Since there was no trail after Photoksar, I would haveto walk on the road, which I did not want to. Fatigue had set in, both mental as well as physical. So, I decided to finish the trek at Photoksar.
Boulevard of broken dreams
I was told to walk on the trail, but I decided to walk on the road instead. It turns out that there is a major river crossing on the road, which vehicles could cross easily, but people could not. I had to walk all the way up to the trail where the river was less turbulent. I spent an hour in doing this. This was my first river crossing. Doing it alone was quite risky, and I will not be repeating it in future!

Baddass river crossing

A landscape that belongs on a wallpaper
The feeling had set in and I just wanted to reach Photoksar as soon as possible and finish the trek.
Horseman, red rock, rucksack and walking stick

Another pass that I did not care about

Welcome to Photoksar
I reached Photoksar at around 11 a.m., but could not immediately find a ride to Lamayuru. So I waited at the only tea shop near the highway. While waiting, I had a great meal of sabzi and rice, while interacting with some local kids.
Beauties

With a bribe of chips packet, love comes naturally!

Weather changed drastically, rain, sun, then rain again

Wow
Finally, a shared cab arrived at around 4 p.m. and I got a free ride till Khaltse. I was so tired that I decided to skip Lamayuru and end the trip in Khaltse.
Goodbye, until next time


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Darcha to Lamayuru Trek - Day 11 to Day 12



DAY 11: HANUMIL TO SNETZE VIA PURFI LA (3900M)

I started early at around 7 a.m. and headed towards Snetze at a quick pace. As I walked past the Zanskar river, I remembered rafting on it 3 years ago.
It was an easy downhill trail, with barely any ascent.
The river just kisses the trail

That is Hanumil village

Notice the trail on the left?

Gigantic straight face rock
I walked and walked for a couple of hours until the trail started to ascend towards Purfi La (3900m). It moved away from Zanskar river. Walking alone gave me a lot of time to introspect and appreciate the magnanimous views around.
A pakka road on the left, spoiling the view

One misstep and you can swim with the fishes in Zanskar river

Steep steps before the pass
Reached Purfi La / Barfi La (3900m) pass at around 10 a.m. I had made good timing.
Purfi la pass (3900m)
Few days old baby horse crossing the pass, like a boss !
After crossing the Purfi La pass, the descent is sudden and steep. It nearly damaged my knees :-( After this sudden descent and a small river crossing, there is a shop to rest and eat. Unsurprisingly, I had two plates of Maggi. After many curious looks and questions (solo Indian on this trek!), I left for Snetze.
Yep, another ascent to reach the campsite at Snetze

I love my eggs too...lol

Somewhere on the right is Purfi La and the killer descent from there
It was the cruellest day as the sun beat down hard, and I was sweating too much. The last part of the walk brought heaps of dust as well.

The lowest part in the middle is Purfi La, I had come from there!
I reached Snetze at around 2 p.m., tired and soaking wet. After another round of Maggi with beer, I slept for a while under the shade of a tree. I chatted with a Ladakhi guide, who said that he had been trekking on that route for 14 years, but had never seen an Indian trekker, let alone a solo Indian trekker!
Godfather and Jhatka

I had a wonderful nap
My private natural Jacuzzi! I washed my clothes and myself here
After the nap, I set up my tent at the campsite and helped a father-son duo to set up a parachute tent. They were from Lingshed and had come to Snetze for the season.
Snetze is a beautiful camping site
 I was alone at the camping site, which made it quite an experience for me.
Yummy Tomok made by the hosts
The evening went by chatting with the campsite owner and negotiating a deal with a horse owner. He had no customers and was going in the same direction as I was. The campsite owner warned me about bears in the area, since I had pitched my tent far from theirs. But he told me not to worry as his donkeys were there, and bears find donkeys more delicious than humans.

DAY 12: SNETZE TO LINGSHED VIA HANUMA LA (4700M)

Thankfully, no bears attacked me the previous night. After a simple breakfast of omelette and chapatti, I left for Hanuma La (4700m) at around 9a.m.
Snetze is somewhere down in the centre
The trail led to a narrow valley with an average uphill ascent. Afterwards, it opened up into a beautiful yellow-stoned valley.
Yellow, yellow all around

Hanuma La (4700m) somewhere behind that last mountain
After a few hours of walking, I started to feel weak, possibly due to a light breakfast or the altitude gain. I kept walking.

The campsite owner at Snetze gave me that wonderful stick
I reached Hanuma La (4700m) at around 11a.m. and realised that the last 50 metres before reaching any pass make for the most rewarding steps of the whole journey. Crossing this pass brought me immense happiness. It could have been due to the struggle or the pleasant weather. Either way, I thoroughly cherished the view .
That green stuff is Lingshed, my destination for that day. Yay!

Stupid pose
The descent on the other side of Hanuma La was not very punishing but still quite steep. I had a plate of Maggi and coke at a shop located at the base of Hanuma La, and continued my way towards Lingshed.
The Descent

Cuteness
Upon reaching Lingshed at around 4 p.m., I started to look for a place to stay. I could not see a campsite or hotel where I could pitch my tent. I was told at Snetze that there was a guesthouse at the top of Lingshed monastery. On my way there, I started talking to a few monks who suggested that I should go to the monastery and talk to the monks there.
Lingshed village, the first one after Padum

Monastery kitchen

Amazingly curious and friendly monks

I had a couple of litres of butter tea along with some food.
I stayed there for the night, in a shared room with a young monk. He cooked dal and rice for dinner, and we talked about our lives.
The young monk, my host

The room I slept in was earlier occupied by an old monk who had died.
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